I scrolled through all the above stories first but cant seem to find one that fits my situation. We surely learned a lot about this. I see commercially, or for roofing, some foam is 40 or up to 100 psi density. If building inspector requires the faced would that be an issue with double vapor barrier. Outside rigid foam will be installed. Your suggestions as very helpful re foam board insulation. when removing the tar and gravel roof, will the original polyiso foam be damaged? What do you recomend I do to best insulate this room . You can install it several ways. Thaen there would be a problem of how to secure the second layer of drywall through the foamboard. Can you please tell me what the thickness should be and if it has to be on the bottom of the slab along with around the sides and it should all the the same thickness or the sides different from the bottom. The batts could be a problem depending on the details. Alan – Blown in insulation is a great option for attics. Frankly foam board will be no more of a fire hazard than fiberglass. We purchase all of our building products from two large “contractor” supply companies and mostly deal with two or three large, well known siding manufactures. I live in New Jersey and I’m currently finishing/renovating my basement and have several questions: 1. And since we had to remove siding to repair the damaged sill (and also termite damage) I thought we would just insulate from the outside rather than tear out sheetrock on the inside. I was even thinking of using house wrap on top of the foam just to provide the extra barrier for water moving into the wall. Approx how thick? The article basically states that the rigid foam board can be installed over or under the Tyvek but that if it installed over the Tyvek, that Tyvek DrainWrap should be used. It ⦠Hi Todd, I am interested in putting down a temporary floor in a garage (aprox. I want to build a portable bar (on locking wheels) and include a large enough cabinet that will hold 2 soda/homebrew 5 gallon kegs with 2 taps out of the front. Floating slab details vary greatly around the Country. Yeah, my sump pump failed in the 2010 Greatest New England Flood of all time…Just my luck…I never had water before…. Why not use an insulated metal panel. Even then it’s probably not required. Remember that water leaks at foundation can be under quite a bit of pressure, almost like plugging a dam from the air side….not possible. thanks. 1- Per BSAF, 1#/cu.ft. Secondly I would insulate that wall, you are correct, 2″ of closed cell foam (XPS). The floor has been very dry the three decades I have lived here. Here are a few things to consider. But my big question is the walls. The foam board I am looking at has a one side with it seems to be thin plastic on it. Rigid Foam R-Value . The problem with wood strapping is termites, but the real problem is the XPS sheeting, I’m having a hard time finding any suppliers here. I’m curious how this project turned out. It has a ribbed steel exterior, 8 ft spacing between the uprights. Cold lower floor wooden floors on concrete slab. Investing in insulation is by far one of the best things you can spend money on in your new home. I likely will get the ceiling closed cell spray foamed but likely not spray foam the walls two story, plus a drive under garage is a lot of walls but not much roof. Unfortunately, most of the roof (2×4’s with 3/4″ boards under felt and shingles) has old tar backed paper insulation, yes literal paper insulation (cool articles from 1937). We are converting our 21×28 garage into a family room. George – For the slab I would recommend 2″ of XPS foam under the slab. You’ll probably want to hold the framing back from the outside of the existing house by the thickness of the foam so that the siding all lines up. 2. External applications should always use Closed Cell ISO. What tape is recommended to seal the joints? I’d suggest you look into some sort of blown-in fiberglass or cellulose similar to this: http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/certainteed-bibs-insulation-system/. todd I live in upstate ny I am putting a 2nd floor on my house 2×6 walls can I use foam board along with 6in faced fiberglass to get higher R value and is it better to install foam board on the interior or exterior or both and what kind of foam board do i use. The room I’m finished now is under my garage where most people just backfill with dirt or make a cistern out of. You really need to get a couple inches installed if you’re hoping to make any improvement in the insulating value. I can deal with wiping that up. The best way is even easier, with little to no mess. I don’t want to heat or air-condition the space and think fiberglass could meet our needs at close to 1/2 the cost. I live in a 90 year old home with minimal insulation. I am building a new house and putting radiant heat in the concrete slab, which will be the finished floor. I am replacing all the 60 year old windows at the same time and want to do the best I can to avoid mold or moisture problems in the future. I think I’m getting a good price for some 26-30 R-Value stuff. I am planning to insulate a large basement, over 200 ft of outside block wall. I am using Owens Corning foamular 150. Will remove doors and add walls. The posts are 8′ oc. If so I’d HIGHLY advise against that. and is getting in the wall somehow and cannot escape due to the vapor barrier. Tina – Glad I can point you in the right direction. I’m just saying that if you use this approach you risk a very serious problem. However, I don’t think fiberglass is such a great option either. Rigid foam insulation offers a thermal resistance between R-5 and R-8, roughly twice that offered by traditional batt insulation. My builder is reluctant to use the 2 inch rigid xps below the concrete saying that he is worried that over time it would not be structurally sound with the 2nd floor weight. Plywood sheathing, tightly shiplapped 3/4" vertical cedar siding. Thank you, Dawn Dicarlo. what’s the thickest individual sheet / board insulation? The meeting of the ceiling & wall is curved, so that has to be taken into account. You will not need to insulate the cavity either. To add insulation it seems our only option is the “blue board” installed under the siding? Actually when we do this, typically we have spray foam insulation or dense packed fiberglass. The most typical approach for insulating a metal roof is to install the metal deck, then install a layer of rigid foam insulation board, then the roof membrane. Is on a slope so earthen coverage varies. Foil faced or not ? We are renovation our living room and kitchen in a 1950’s ranch home. The air space is actually a good thing. The wall has metal studs looks like 4 inch. Thank you so much again. I am also in NH, gonna be getting cold soon wanna make sure I insulate properly. We live in Ohio, if that helps, and have had no moisture problems in past. Not being able to pull the trigger about which thickness of polyiso is really bugging me. I can’t find much information on it but I think if I attach the foam board to the runners, this would give me 3/4″ air gap/vapor barrier between the metal siding and the foam, the R factor for 3/4 is 3.2. We added a sump pump in that section. Owens Corning FOAMULAR 150 2 in. Thank you for your help and I look forward to your opinion. Insulating basement walls in cold climates is a great way to keep your home warmer and drier. I want to make my own hot tub cover because all of the manufacturers only use expanded polystyrene because it assures them you will buy a buy a new cover every three years. Stan – Frankly I’d blow in cellulose between the T&G and the ceiling below it. Thanks for any advice you can offer (this is not really in my bailiwick). Most builders will place blocking behind the window flanges, 1×4, or something similar so the windows have a good solid connection. what would you reccomend? If so maybe an inch or two so the snow load should be minimal. Well let me start with this and I’m assuming your local building official will also evaluate. I also was hoping to find xps board pre-manufacture with foil on one side (for radiant purposes) and a rough fiberglass mesh surface on the other side (stucco ready). The attic has a gable vent on either end; one with an exhaust fan. I am in NJ, my basement is made of hallow blocks. Will the polyiso sheathing trap moisture in the cavity under it? Would you suggest consulting with a structural engineer? – Can I stack three 1″ on top of each to create (say R21)? Ryan – You have two main issues. I noticed one post above mentioned three layers of tar paper. My house is split level, so half the basement is above ground (already insulated) and half below. However, a product like that will really only help with horizontal siding products. There was a family room in the cellar when I first bought the house. Brad – It sure can! Not sure I understand your question. basement @ 70 degrees. I am wondering, since it has a walk in basement, (the front foundation wall is back-filled, the rear is bare). It does come at a cost, more money to build, needs exterior finish (stone, brick, stucco) for the exposed portion, and the interior needs to be finished in order to protect against fire. For that price I can pretty much build a moveable bar, though maybe a bit rustic, with an insulated cabinet and a couple of cheap beer faucets coming out the front, serve by brew cold and not worry about 100F weather heating up my kegs when having some folks over. It never had any insulation. I would call your local building officials and inquire about it. I am trying to lessen the noise of people walking around on the hardwood floors upstairs while in the basement and was thinking that gluing some foam board insulation in the areas between the joists and then using Great Stuff to seal the cracks along the edges might do something to help. It would be a lot of wood otherwise. Do I need to seal these gaps and if so, how? What a fabulous website! Thanks, Bob. If you have a shared studded basement wall, I would be sure the insulation is Roxsul (mineral wool) which does not burn or retain moisture. If your neighbor above is heating the space then your not loosing as much up as you are likely out the sides. We don’t have to ask questions all over again. Thanks Todd. I would install some type of wrap whether traditional or even tar paper over the old siding before the new foam. I would appreciate any ideas you could give me on the insulation. It is attached to house, exterior has vinyl siding inside has drywall. I need to know what to use when installing styofoam insulation to keep it attached to the metal roof inside. I want to put insulation between the concrete. I don’t think closed cell foam rots if it gets wet? Todd, I have a below grade,uninsulated,mostly dry, basement in N.H. that I would like to insulate. Your other issue is humidity levels in the house. Not sure I understand your other question. It is amazing to me how many people throughout the industry do not understand the science of this problem. Fiberglass batton insulation and 1/2 inch gypsumboard. If that’s the case you should consult with a structural engineer before moving forward with your project…enough of that…. I am thinking aboutblue or pink foam board. Do you think we should remove the plaster and glue the XPS boards directly on the brick or we should glue on top of the plaster? I want the best insulation available. Todd, I’ll check again but, I was told local codes require that I vent below the sheeting. I live in southeast PA. I’m planing on finishing my basement. This sounds like it would be essentially a “hot roof” which is not uncommon in Canada. This approach helps with air sealing. 2″= R12, minimum. Ventilation is essential to a properly functioning attic. This topic is purely cost vs performance. Polyiso is typically used with a foil facing and it has an R value of 7.0 to 8.0 per inch of thickness. I’m thinking of using Polyisocyanurate w/ foil on one side. I am looking to add insulation to the above grade bedrooms on the North side of the home. I just finished installing R-21 Batt insulation and I noticed that I have a 2″ lip in which I can install up to a 2″ foam board against the wall before I start my new wall for the basement. Be sure you seal all the joints well and it runs continuous from the slab up to the bottom of your floor deck above (rim joist area). My winter basement temperature is 50-60 degrees and I have had small, isolated water leakage problems a couple of times over 6 years when too much water got close to the outside walls (downspout problems). I know spray foam on walls and roof would probably be best, but finances are in short supply. Good luck. We are looking to insulate our pole barn to knock off some of the cold air for winter use. Please advise. Interior French Drains are a great way to intercept and remove water from basements. In this house there is 4″ of rigid foam on the OUTSIDE and the interior walls of the 8″ reinforced CIP walls are coated with two coats of Ultra DryLok followed by two coats of SW highly reflective paint. The key here is when you install the foam, be sure to seal it very well to the framing. Do I need to insulate and seal the entire cellar & floor in order for the insulation to be useful? The eves are always tough especially on a house with shallow rafters. All good info. From reading other posts I think I should use 2 inch XPS foam sheets (or closed cell spray foam) directly against the concrete and then drywall with nothing else. Anyway, should I go with faced or unfaced fiberglass insulation? Does the foil side face up if installing 6 inches below a metal roof ? Quite humid during the summer months. It certainly doesn’t hurt! So I only have 1.5″ space for insulation. There is a concrete slab and the roof is held up by three 6×6 cedar posts. Since i am afraid of compromising the structural integrity of the roof i don’t want to sister 2×10 onto the existing rafters to create more space for insulation. – If it were me I’d do this: Install fiberglass insulation in the cavities. I’ve removed the paneling, and was planning on gluing 3/4″ foam to the concrete between the furing strips, then another 3/4″ layer over it all. Definitely seal the foam to the rafters with spray foam. Thanks, Ryan. Also, what type of fasteners should I use for the foam and the siding? Here in NH we have a pretty strict Energy Code that requires the entire building to be analyzed which determines the level of insulation. My plan was to glue at least 1 1/2″ of foam board to the concrete walls, leave 1/2″ gap, then frame a wall with R13 fiberglass and cover with drywall. (We have to have brick on the full front and partial sides/back.) 4. David – Good question, frankly I’ve never compared cost per inch. It comes in standard-size 4×8 sheets, and smaller sizes, in many different thicknesses from 1/4 inch to 2 inches. XPS is a closed cell foam board and a far superior choice for this application. Certainly worth looking into though. Yes, one side of the concrete wall I’m referring to is my unfinished part of my basement and the other side is the room i’m finishing now. I’d pick a solution in the middle which will cost less than foam but perform almost as well. The outside concrete wall is painted on the outside only. This is our 1st home & it is 100 years old. Also I thought to cover over the rafters with 1/2in foam board to make it all air tight, and then install my drywall,thanks. They don’t have any detailed spec sheet touting any kind of advanced technology or features. What would you recommend using under the siding and why? If you install blue board like that you’re going to concentrate moisture from the block wall against the studs. Add to that the ability to purchase recycled/once-used rigid foam insulation boards of all types and sizes and you have a eco friendly solution. (I hope this make sense). Would this work? In my opinion the best approach is removing the old siding. Interesting question! Enermax is the only structural board that combines these factors with a quiet environment, an integral part of the "total" home comfort equation. You’ve got to address why the levels are so high (identify sources of humidity, showers, dish washing, cooking, improper vented appliances, etc) and deal with it. That would leave about 1.5″ of clearance between the foam board and the metal roof. It’s used in commercial construction all the time. With that foil faced foam you want the foil on the warm surface. The better solution is the insulation on top of the roof sheathing or applied to the bottom chord of the trusses so it’s continuous. 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